Animal Rights

Butchers Are Hot. Blood Is Sexy. Killing Is Hip. This Is Not Progress.

Published July 08, 2009 @ 05:40PM PT

I'm wishing I'd slept sometime in the last 36 hours because then maybe I'd have something smarter and more thoughtful to say about this than I do. But I'll still give it an exhausted (and deeply disturbed) whirl. From the New York Times article "Young Idols with Cleavers Rule the Stage":

Now there is a new kind of star on the food scene: young butchers. With their swinging scabbards, muscled forearms and constant proximity to flesh, butchers have the raw, emotional appeal of an indie band. They turn death into life, in the form of a really good skirt steak.

And it doesn’t hurt that some people find them exceptionally hot.

“Think about it. What’s sexy?” said Tia Keenan, the fromager at Casellula Cheese and Wine Café and an unabashed butcher fan. “Dangerous is sometimes sexy, and they are generally big guys with knives who are covered in blood.”

Yes, nothing more sexy than killing. Nothing more titillating than knowing the blood someone's covered in was just recently coursing through the veins of a fearful young animal. Nothing more exciting than getting to take the life of, or hack apart the body of, a fellow being--or of even just getting to witness it. (I also grimaced at the romanticized Old MacDonald's farm remark--"Farmers, who gently coax food from the earth"--but that's another matter.) The article continues:

In San Francisco, Ryan Farr calls himself a “producer of porcine pleasure.” Mr. Farr, 30, is a former restaurant chef who is working on opening his butcher shop, 4505 Meats. In the meantime, people pay him $75 to learn how to break down a young 90-pound pig. They get to take home about 12 pounds of pork and nibble on roasted pork head and Mr. Farr’s signature chicharrones.

Max Heilbron, 31, bought slots in a late spring class as a birthday present for his girlfriend, Jade Le, 28. She hacked away at a leg while he documented the event on his iPhone and Mr. Farr tried to give away some of the grimmer tasks.

“Who wants to start taking the face off the head?” he asked. . . .

Mr. Farr visited New York last week, and one thing on his list was to meet another rock star butcher, Tom Mylan of Marlow & Daughters in Brooklyn. The broody, moody Mr. Mylan, 32, has become such a cult figure that his classes sell out quickly and he sometimes dodges fans, who approach him at parties, and calls from the news media.

Mr. Farr had a dream. “I want to throw a 300-pound pig in the middle of a room full of people and just tag-team it with him,” he said. So far, Mr. Mylan hasn’t set a date.

And it's not just men:

Women, who often lack the upper body strength to pull a 100-pound piece of pig from the hook to the table, take a more strategic and delicate approach.

“Their cutting is a little more sensitive and precise because of it,” she said. But even among the women who butcher, Ms. Adler said, there is that swagger.

“There’s a macho performal nature that some of these people crave,” she said. “And what better a performance than the blood and guts of butchery?”

The "hipster hottie butchering phenomenon" this article celebrates? It's sick.

Animal advocates grumble sometimes about the people who refuse to make the connection, who do their best not to think about where their "food" comes from, about the specific, individual animals who were brutally killed before bits of their bodies landed on people's plates.

But this? This is worse. When people get a thrill out of hacking apart the body of an animal, when people see someone covered in the blood of a 6-month-old pig or young steer, who was so recently every bit as alive and special and aware and feeling as the hipsters' dog friends back at home, and think "sexy," that's worse. It's not progressive and cutting-edge. It's just disturbing and violent. And wrong.

---
For what it's worth, in addition to not swiping the NYT photos, I made a conscious decision not to include a photo I located of one of the article's "stars," Ryan Farr, teaching what he finds so exciting and, perhaps, given his language, even erotic; you can look here if you think you can stomach it.

Instead of something graphic, I'll just leave you with the soulful face and eyes that have been haunting me since the first time I laid eyes on the photo. I wonder if some self-involved "progressives" found this young animal's death and bloody mutilation exciting and sexy.

Share this Post

Related Posts

Comments (36)

  1. Kim Johnson

    WTF? Call 'em what you want but these creeps are NOT hip in the least.  You see, this just proves to me that humans are still the most savage blood thirsty killers on the planet, whether they are in touch with that aspect of themselves or not. There is just no other explanation for how people can know what the animals are going through a turn a blind eye to it. Shame on these vampires.

    Posted by Kim Johnson on 07/08/2009 @ 06:19PM PT

  2. Shannon Duffield

    Dear Stephanie,

    You should be thrilled that so many people are taking an interest in the meat they are eating and not just gulping down the cheapest cut they can find without a thought to where that meat came from or how that animal was treated.  These boutique butchers are by and large purchasing their meat from local farmers who are raising their animals humanely on pasture and without the use of (or need for) antibiotics or hormones.  People are paying more money for this "happy meat" and treating it with more respect and gratitude, maybe even eating less of it.  Hopefully these changes will be continuous and far-reaching so as to ultimately end the era of the big agribusiness feedlot - where you really should be focusing your activism.  I'm sure we agree that the treatment of the animals and the environmental implications of that type of meat production are reprehensible and need to end. 

    Your boycott of meat and animal by-products is not helping to bring this change about.  You are inhibiting the success of the small sustainable farmer.  The small farmers need your dollars in order to stay afloat and we need them as an alternative if we are to put an end to industrial meat production.  It would be unrealistic for you to honestly believe that people will stop eating meat because the animals have "soulful eyes".  Such an anthropocentric attitude and naïve understanding of nutrient cycles only reinforces the culture/nature boundary you may ultimately be hoping to dissolve.  You are denying that you are in fact an animal designed to eat meat.  We are nature.  Killing and eating animals is natural, for all animals, even humans.  You are not superior, nor can you be excluded from this cycle of life... and death.

    I say yeehoo for the newbie butchers!

     

    Posted by Shannon Duffield on 07/08/2009 @ 07:20PM PT

  3. Shannon-

    I see your point. The world would be a better place if the factory farms and slaughter houses were non-existent. The Local Farms with “happy cows” would be a bit more ideal. I think we can all agree on that. If the world can’t live without slaughtering innocent animals then killing the cows in a “peaceful” way is better. (I think a peaceful way of dieing is in ones sleep… not getting stabbed or electrocuted but that’s just me.)

    What I think Stephanie may be trying to stress in her Animal Rights Blog is that the article is simply disturbing and boarder line horrifying for the person who looks at a fear feeling, animal as no different from a human animal. Or maybe a better comparison… they are no different from the pets we keep in our homes. Cows and pigs have the same capacity to develop a personality, a relationship, to love to feel pain, fear and happiness as our puppies and kittens (or me and you). So consider this article in a different light if you would… picture replacing the cows and pigs they are chopping up and speaking of so nonchalantly of as your dog or a human. I believe that just about everyone reading Stephanie’s blogs looks at these animals in the same way just described. So I can’t agree with you completely. I think maybe Stephanie (I’m not sure… I cant speak for her, I’m sure she will have her own response to your post) is more upset about people thinking that being covered in an animals blood is sexy.  I don’t think she is inhibiting the success of the small sustainable farmer… but we can hope that is what she’s doing… for the sake of the cows and pigs who are being exploited in this article and other situations alike.

     

     

    Posted by Rebecca S. on 07/09/2009 @ 03:40PM PT

    • Report close

      You must be signed in to report content.

    • 1 person likes this comment.   Like
  4. Red N.

    Shannon, do you happen to be an employee of the meat industry by any chance? If so your PR is a bit lacking in factual content and integrity. You have a distinct lack of knowledge of human biology, evolution and anthropology. Stephanie is NOT an animal designed to eat meat, neither are you. Thats a fact which you should already know. Firstly you dont have a fixed jaw, all carnivores and omnivores do. All herbivores have jaws like us. Also our saliva ph is that of a herbivore and our guts are long.

    You talk about nature and nutrient cycles like its an excuse for atrocious and cruel behavior. But you forget that historically all humans used to ritually eat each other and eat their enemies sharing the gore to re-enforce hierarchies (which some other primates also do). It is nothing to do with nutritional needs it stems from violent ritualistic, hierarchy enforcing behavior.

    These butchers attempting to appear sexy is not only repulsive but inherently troubling because it is promoting violent behavior. It is asking people to find violence sexually arousing, and if you cant see the problem with that and the implications of adopting it as a cultural norm then you didnt really think it through did you.

    Lastly you belittled Stephanies description of the emotion on the pigs face but are you trying to say that the species that you happen to belong to is the only animal which has emotions? Thats a bit of a convienient supposition.  And not a very scientific line of thought. All the evidence suggects that all animals have emotion - just think logically about it and the behavior which animals exhibit; it needs emotion and strong bonds to drive it.  

    In conclusion yes we can be excluded from this violent cycle. We can choose not to support it at all.  

    Posted by Red N. on 07/10/2009 @ 05:46AM PT

    • Report close

      You must be signed in to report content.

    • 6 people like this comment.   Like
  5. Lisa Rose

    Shannon:
    Tobacco farmers, too, may have seen harder times since the effects of smoking have come to light. Does that mean, out of empathy for the farmers and their sustainability, people should continue to smoke?
    I happily support my local farmers who supply AWESOME produce, by the way. Pigs, cows, etc. are not the only "products" a farmer can "raise."
    Also, what evidence do you have that humans are naturally supposed to eat animals again? If this is the case, where is our speed to chase them down, our fangs and claws to rip them apart, the proper digestive systems to break down meat (p.s. Last I checked, I had none of these necessities for "naturally" consuming meat products.)
    If you are talking about machines and utensils made by man that have allowed humans to create a less gruesome and cleaner/"safer" way of eating animals, than I would venture to say we aren't consuming them in a "natural" way.
    "Killing and eating animals is natural, for all animals, even humans." --  Seriously, you can't think of one animal that is an herbivore? Come on. 

    Posted by Lisa Rose on 07/10/2009 @ 07:11AM PT

    • Report close

      You must be signed in to report content.

    • 6 people like this comment.   Like
  6. Lisa Smolen

    I was thinking carnivorous horses are real bitch to groom.

    Posted by Lisa Smolen on 07/10/2009 @ 07:42AM PT

    • Report close

      You must be signed in to report content.

    • 4 people like this comment.   Like
  7. Reply to thread
  8. Deb Durant

    I'm not sure most people will realize how young that 90 lb piglet is either. The 9 month old piglet at the sanctuary is 200 lbs (estimated).  And they're not free fed at the sanctuary the way pigs would be at places trying to fatten them up quickly for maximum profits, and Wilbur came from a neglect situation where they were being starved. So he's small for 9 months. 90 lbs? I'm thinking that's a 2 month old piglet.

    The article really makes me sick to my stomach.

    Posted by Deb Durant on 07/08/2009 @ 07:22PM PT

  9. Lisa Smolen

    I really don't understand the "sexiness" involved.  Know what's sexy?  Flowers.  Chocolate.  Bubble baths.  A man in clean clothes who smells good. 

     

    I don't want my man covered in pigs' blood & gore or glorifying the hacking off of a face.  We don't live in the 12th century.

    Posted by Lisa Smolen on 07/08/2009 @ 07:36PM PT

  10. Kathy Jackson

    Lisa, I agree with you completely! 

    Posted by Kathy Jackson on 11/09/2009 @ 11:11AM PT

  11. Reply to thread
  12. Kelly Garbato

    You know what else is hot? Rape. Especially when your rapist takes fetish photos of your battered body during the act and shares them with other rapists. Really gives it that personal touch.

    Hey, some might say that rape is unethical, but it's in the genes! Gotta pass that DNA on. Who are we to argue with nature? - civilization, ethics and technology be damned.

    But Stephanie, instead of trying to end rape, you should just work to pass legislation to regulate the most violent forms of rape. You know, make it illegal to beat a woman bloody beforehand. No crowbars and baseball bats, just an open hand. I know you're a feminist and all, you think rape is wrong, yadayadayada, but be realistic.

    Posted by Kelly Garbato on 07/08/2009 @ 07:40PM PT

  13. Kelly Garbato

    Lest anyone misread me, that was sarcasm.

    Posted by Kelly Garbato on 07/08/2009 @ 07:41PM PT

    • Report close

      You must be signed in to report content.

    • 1 person likes this comment.   Like
  14. Lisa Smolen

    I LIVE for saracasm!!

    Posted by Lisa Smolen on 07/08/2009 @ 08:03PM PT

    • Report close

      You must be signed in to report content.

    • 1 person likes this comment.   Like
  15. Sandi Droubay

    Good Point Kelly,  yeah I think men that Rape are sexy and HOT and I also like them covered in blood after butchering an animal.  GRRRRR. 

    Oh....this too is sarcasm BTW.

    Posted by Sandi Droubay on 11/15/2009 @ 04:23PM PT

  16. Reply to thread
  17. Deb Durant

    I knew that story reminded me of something: American Psycho.

    http://www.imdb.com/title/tt0144084/

     

    Posted by Deb Durant on 07/08/2009 @ 07:52PM PT

  18. Kelly Garbato

    Ha, yes!

    Posted by Kelly Garbato on 07/08/2009 @ 07:55PM PT

    • Report close

      You must be signed in to report content.

    • 1 person likes this comment.   Like
  19. Reply to thread
  20. Boston Vegan Association (program of Int'l Humanities Center)

    My "favorites" are the vegetarian newbie butchers, though this guy might not hit many tweeners' radars:

    http://www.tennessean.com/article/20090704/NEWS01/907040324/1006/Vegetarian+finds+niche+as+butcher

    Posted by Boston Vegan Association (program of Int'l Humanities Center) on 07/08/2009 @ 08:10PM PT

  21. Abby J.

    Strange....

    Posted by Abby J. on 07/08/2009 @ 08:22PM PT

  22. Covered in blood is not sexy...If their spouse came in and said they just killed a person, I bet they wouldn't think that blood they were covered in wasn't so sexy anymore. I think they're just trying to come up with some kind of an excuse...

    Posted by Samantha L on 07/08/2009 @ 09:10PM PT

  23. Erica Volpe

    I read that to and laughed a little bit about how they tried to make men covered in blood sexy. Well at least people are eating less mcdonalds and more fresh meat. I don't support killing animals but so many of us are convinced we need animal fat to survive and thats where our intelligence has come from. you know- neanderthal to current day. even when it has been proven recently we really dont need it. thats why heart disease is one of our top killers. as well as cancer bc of all of the hormones and antibiotics and pesticide ridden food the animals are eating, and the fact that the FDA is run by people trying to make money instead of people who actually care about packaging healthy meat and looking the other way at the real slummy conditions our food is processed in. once again people -STOP WATCHING FOX NEWS! thats all I have to say. not only fox news just the mass media. I was once told the mass media is run by aliens who are trying to kill us. haha. i think its true.

    Posted by Erica Volpe on 07/08/2009 @ 09:32PM PT

  24. David R.

    Other animals do kill and eat each other, so you could say that eating meat is natural for humans.  But no other animal derives pleasure or excitement from watching or causing suffering.  Killing to survive is one thing.  Killing for entertainment is very different.  

    Isn't it ironic how many of the people who oppose violence in movies, TV, etc. will fund violence against another species?

    Posted by David R. on 07/09/2009 @ 09:03AM PT

  25. Bea Elliott

    Stephanie... I thank you for using the photo of your mascot instead.  :)

    Not all the blood, or all the "sex", or all the master grillers can trivialize that this was once a living sentient being with every right to their life; save the brutishness of our own.

    Posted by Bea Elliott on 07/09/2009 @ 10:41AM PT

  26. Mary Martin

    I wonder if those women would have found Ted Bundy sexy.

    Posted by Mary Martin on 07/09/2009 @ 01:29PM PT

  27. Daniel Wilson

    "I don’t think [Stephanie] is inhibiting the success of the small sustainable farmer..."

    Dear Rebecca, is this your first visit to this blogsite? This site isn't to promote and applaud the small sustainable animal farmer, it's to speak for the animals. I think both Shannon, who sees nothing wrong with killing animals, and you should go to some of Stephanie's earlier blogs to find out what the animal rights movement and this blogsite are all about. 

    At first I thought the "killing is sexy" thing was a joke, something The Onion might do, then I thought this might be a perverse reaction (and slap in the face) to the growing animal rights movement (like the meatatarian ads by Wendy's a few years ago). I've read a lot of blogs where people are very defensive and unapologetic about eating meat. This seems to be an extension of that. 

    Nevertheless, it's unfortunate and sad.

    Posted by Daniel Wilson on 07/10/2009 @ 03:50AM PT

  28. Daniel-

    Did you read my entire post??????? If you did you would see that I am actually on your side...not Shannon's in the slightest. I must not have made my sarcasm clear enough. AND after I said:

     "I don’t think [Stephanie] is inhibiting the success of the small sustainable farmer..."

    Did you catch what I said after that sentence??

    "we can hope that is what she’s doing… for the sake of the cows and pigs who are being exploited in this article and other situations alike."

    But thank you for making me sound like an animal hater/killer. That makes me feel really good. Since I basically revolve my entire life around making (trying to make) some kind of difference for the animals.

    p.s. the part where I said I agree with Shannon may have thrown you off... I was agreeing with her wanting to put an end to industrial meat production. Sorry for not making that point clear.

    Posted by Rebecca S. on 07/10/2009 @ 12:44PM PT

    • Report close

      You must be signed in to report content.

    • 1 person likes this comment.   Like
  29. ALSO: This is not my first visit to this blog site. And I Do NOT eat meat or Dairy products, nor do I use any product that contains animal products. So NO I am not being very defensive and unapologetic about eating meat. And I am not an extention of whatever point you were trying to make.

    Posted by Rebecca S. on 07/10/2009 @ 12:53PM PT

  30. Reply to thread
  31. Kristi H

    There is nothing "humane" about slaughter!

    This is worth reposting:

    http://video.google.com/videoplay?docid=6361872964130308142

    Posted by Kristi H on 07/10/2009 @ 03:39PM PT

  32. Jamie  Rivet

    This is as good an example as any to demonstrate a pervasive flaw in humans: self gratification that comes with a high, albeit externalized, cost. The people involved in this blood lust spectacle are uncaring thoughtless individuals: they do not appreciate the nature of factory farms and slaughter. I doubt any of them-- hipster, blood-drenched, corpse frying chefs included-- would last at a slaughterhouse job. Why? Because almost no one does. It is not nice work. Certainly not nice for the animals. But these “in vogue” corpse cutters are happy to support violence to animals and the killing industry. They may even love dog, love horse, while they eat pig, eat cow. This qualifies as some perverted speciesism that they would no doubt dismiss by simply saying, “it is natural to eat animals”. This, from people who drive cars, live in climate controlled homes, carry cell phones... The only thing they cling to from Cro-Mag cave man days is violence to animals. They are unable to progress with the ethical revolution and get past harming defenseless animals. I am hosting an official screening of Earthlings here in Toronto at the end of July. I invite all trendy butchers to attend. My guess is that they will be the first ones running for the door. But don't let this “news” get you down Stephanie. I remember the words of a wise media analyst many years ago: “I don't think what the media says people are thinking about is actually what people are thinking about.” And I don't the younger generation is aspiring to a long, bloody, boring career in animal dismemberment. This is mostly a story made out of nothing.

    Posted by Jamie Rivet on 07/11/2009 @ 01:17AM PT

  33. Jamie  Rivet

    And I don't THINK the ...

    in the second last sentence above. Missed that somehow.

    Posted by Jamie Rivet on 07/11/2009 @ 01:20AM PT

  34. Reply to thread
  35. Daniel Wilson

    Rebecca,

    A thousand apologies about misinterpreting your sarcasm in your comment to Shannon. One of my problems is that I read and write so early in the morning that my brain's humour switch isn't always turned on. The other thing I've noticed is that there are so many spelling and grammar errors from commenters (and completely inappropriate wording) that I sometimes have to guess what the person is actually saying. In this case, I guessed wrong. Please forgive me!

    And no, I wasn't suggesting that you were the one being unapologetic or defensive; that's reserved for those who seem to bask in the knowledge that they're taking life because "they're at the top of the food chain," and comments like that.

    Posted by Daniel Wilson on 07/11/2009 @ 08:38AM PT

  36. Matsi Yasei

    Hmm....I'm waiting for a "Ryan Farr" to be on the news as "wanted for mass murder".

    Posted by Matsi Yasei on 07/12/2009 @ 09:13PM PT

  37. Lawrence Lerner

    "I wonder if some self-involved "progressives" found this young animal's death and bloody mutilation exciting and sexy."

    No, but I bet the chops were tasty!

    Posted by Lawrence Lerner on 07/17/2009 @ 11:45AM PT

  38. catherine burt

    I bet those butchers really smell bad.  Even after they shower. 

    Death has a lingering, sickening odor...

    Posted by catherine burt on 07/17/2009 @ 01:04PM PT

  39. Lawrence Lerner

    My late, beloved uncle was a butcher. He didn't smell bad.

    Properly cooked meats, however, smell wonderful!

    Posted by Lawrence Lerner on 07/17/2009 @ 01:33PM PT

  40. Steve Davis

    "Properly cooked meats, however, smell wonderful!"

    Just like a fire at an orphanage, with all the children trapped inside. Barbarian!!!

     

    Posted by Steve Davis on 07/21/2009 @ 09:35PM PT

  41. Reply to thread
  42. Kathy Jackson

    Oh my goodness....

    Posted by Kathy Jackson on 11/09/2009 @ 11:16AM PT

  43. Sandi Droubay

    Good God,  I really can't believe that this is the "new" thing..."sexy, bloody butchers?"   Excuse me while I gag....

    Posted by Sandi Droubay on 11/15/2009 @ 04:19PM PT

Add a Comment

For your comment to be published, you will need to confirm your email address after submitting your comment.

If you already have an account, click here to log in.

Comments on Change.org are meant for further exploration and evaluation of the ideas covered in the posts. To that end, we welcome constructive comments. However, we reserve the right to delete comments that are offensive, abusive, or off-topic; that contain ad hominem attacks; or that are designed to subvert or hijack comment threads rather than contribute to them. Repeat offenders may be permanently removed from the site at our discretion.

Author
Stephanie Ernst

Stephanie is an independent animal rights advocate, a vegan, a tree-hugging environmentalist, and a freelance editor and writer. She lives in St. Louis with an aging corgi-lab and an adolescent rescued pit bull.

close

This user's Profile page is not public. They have restricted it to only their friends.

Already a Member?

Create an Account

You must create a Change.org account to complete this action.
If you already have an account click here.